Posting about Luoyang is becoming rather involved. Consider the break between Part 2 and Part 3 to represent the mere 45 minute break we got from all the excitement. After a short rest on the Mothership, we were wisked off to a museum that was built on top of an archaeological excavation. Originally, whoever started digging there was just going to put in a building but had to stop following the discovering. Much like the pharaohs of ancient Egypt, the royalty here believed that you could take it all with you when you go. This particular ruler appeared to be especially fond of horses and carriages, as was evidenced by the dozens of equine skeletons embedded in the earth.
As you can see, the excavation is pretty huge. The main attraction at this site was that one carriage appears to be pulled by 6 horses. It seems pretty unpractical and is only something a frivolous emperor would do.
Here's a close-up of the anomalous buggy:
Our final historical destination for the day was the White Horse Temple, located in the outskirts of Luoyang. The road to it was dotted by farms, small shops, and loads of bicycles burdened down with heavy cargo. It was obvious that the people in this part of the province work their asses off.
Upon our arrival to the temple, we were met by one of the head monks who graciously showed us around. As he did, he narrated in an old-fashioned style of Chinese what seemed like a very complete history of the structure. I could not understand a word of it, of course, and even with our interpreter's help the story was hard to grasp, being very figurative and legendary in nature. Still, I was intrigued by this man and just enjoyed watching him and listening to him speak. He had a friendly disposition and wherever we went his story-telling drew a large, personal-space-invading crowd of onlookers eager to hear it and catch a closer look at or snap pictures of the white folks.
Our host comes out to meet us at the entry gate.
Just inside the entryway was the fanciest garbage can I have ever seen.
The main entry gate into the temple complex. Elena, our interpreter, Lisa, and a few curious onlookers listen intently to the monk's narration.
The crowds begin to form. Some of the observers pick their noses.
Worshipers pray and make offerings by burning incense.
This statue, inside the first main hall of the complex, is an incarnation of the Buddha that represents repentance.
Guan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy. Although the different figures have different names, they are all still referred to as "Buddha".
Another incense burner.
I really did my best to keep my cool about the nosy strangers while we were here. One of my favorite things about Asia is the temples and I just really wanted to look around and enjoy this one, but people were all up in our business the entire time. People crowded around us, pushed us out of the way to hear the monk speak and the staring was worse than ever. I saw people snapping pictures of Tony and Elena while people who actually knew them were trying to do so. At one point I noticed a woman rapidly approaching me from behind and soon had her camera in my face, trying to take my picture. I smiled insanely at her, widening my eyes as much as I could and bearing all of my teeth. I suppose I was trying to intimidate her and make her see that what she was doing was ridiculous and rude, but she just seemed slightly more amused by it and said, "Hello!"
This is apparently a very blessed tree. Our monk took a few moments to explain its significance and demonstrate how to caress it properly. As soon as he stepped away to move onto the next topic, bystanders swarmed the tree like moths to a flame, eager to soak up its spiritual power.
Outside the main complex is another collection of temples under construction, representing Buddhists from various countries. The first one we saw when we stepped outside the gates of the main complex was a Thai-style temple. Our host made a joke about how we had walked so far that we had ended up in Thailand without even realizing it. There was also a beautiful, recently-opened Indian Buddhist temple:
Once inside the front entrance, Tony was led over to a table where he appeared to do some sort of ceremonial signing. Tired of the crowds and seeing that yet another was beginning to form around our party, Charlie and I hung back and discussed the intrusive nature of the people here. I complained about it and he responded with, "At least they don't touch you anymore," going on to explain that when he was a child people would not only stare and take pictures, but stroke his head and even attempt to pick him up or otherwise handle him. He reassured me that it would be better in Beijing (and it is - only the really old people stare here, but really old people do that anywhere). While we were talking, a Chinese man in a suit came up to us and said something in Chinese. I immediately forgot how to say, "I don't understand," so I just shook my head to indicate it. He then asked what I understood to be, "No Chinese?" and I shook my head again so he just walked away.
After the Indian temple, we made our way back to the front gate. Our host gave Tony some spiritual texts in Chinese and once again we were off in our police-led motorcade, not knowing where we were going. We just seemed to be cruising around. At one point we drove through part of a large park in which driving is not allowed and stopped to get out and take in the view:
It was a little chilly so we didn't spend long in the park. We got back in the van and soon arrived at a magnificently decorated doorway with two rows of costumed young ladies waiting just inside the door. We questioned Lisa about it, to which she responded, "This is the Water Banquet." As we walked in, the rows of young ladies said ni hao in unison and then one led us to a private banquet room where we would once again enjoy a fancy meal, this time the one that Luoyang is famous for.
I gotta say, these folks sure know how to set a table.
As I mentioned before, the Water Banquet is a 24-dish meal, consisting mainly of soup-based dishes. Already on the table when we arrived were the eight preliminary dishes, each symbolizing something different. The costumed waitstaff ceremoniously served us, announcing the dishes and giving a history on this particular type of banquet. From what I understood, it was either a favorite of, invented by, or created in honor of China's only female emperor, Wu Zetian.
Here are our waitresses, doing their part to re-create life in the Tang Dynasty for us.
The eight preliminary dishes and their condiments.
The first soup dish arrives. Beautiful and tasty!
As I would come to find out long after the meal, we apparently ate shark fin soup at some point. I wish I had known which dish it was so that I could tell you whether it was worth it considering the environmental implications. The soups are served rapidly in order to represent flowing water. Once we realized how fast it was all going, Charlie and I frantically began trying to gulp down our soups one by one, so as not to fall behind. Lisa noticed this and told us that we only really had to taste each dish and then could have more if we wanted. "Remember, you have 14 more to go," she warned. I really didn't know what I was eating the majority of the time - some of the food was wonderful and some of the dishes just had way too much white pepper.
Near the end of our meal, the "eunuch" arrived to entertain us as would have been done for the emperor. As far as I could tell, this is the equivalent to a Tang Dynasty drag show. I don't think this man was actually a eunuch, but back in the day he would have been. Please enjoy his bizarre yet skillful singing:
As we were leaving I could hear a gong playing. As it turned out, as people were leaving the eunuch was standing by the door, saying "Thank you for coming," in an exaggerated way in old-fashioned Chinese and striking the gong. It was all just amazing.
Following dinner, we were taken directly to the airport, where the most unusual thing of all happened. We were driven up to a door that said "VIP Departures", where we were told the elevator wasn't working so we ended up going through the regular entrance. Lisa collected our passports and went to check us in at the ticketing desk. Apparently someone told them that we were VIP enough that they did not need to see our faces to verify who we were. I am always nervous about surrendering my passport and this was the second time I had done it already. We were led up some stairs, through some back doors, by-passing all security checkpoints without being scanned, and ultimately ended up in this posh executive lounge where we were served tea and had private western-style bathrooms (the other ones at the airport are hell).
We were the only people here.
Our entourage stayed with us until it was time to board, despite the plane being late, and eventually Lisa reappeared with our passports and boarding passes, somehow securing us the very first row in the coach area. When it was time to board the flight, we did have to pass through "security" where they just seemed to make us put our bags through the scanners and collect our boarding pass stubs as a mere formality. We didn't figure they were even looking at the scanners because Elena made it through with a full bottle of water in her carry-on. We said goodbye and expressed deep gratitude to our wonderful group of hosts and then were the first ones on the plane. We were so worn out that we just slept all the way home. I wish flying was always so simple and convenient. Sometimes it pays to be connected.
Sounds like you are having a great time!! Can't wait to hear more! Kellie
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